1. Field of the Invention
This invention relates to a master pattern for upper garments, which is utilized for dressmaking.
2. Prior Art
A conventional master pattern for upper garments is made with a primary object of creating a beautiful silhouette in a stationary state and comprises a curve which extends along an ellipse which appears when a three-dimensional structure simulating the human body is cut at each joint (see FIG. 5).
Generally, as to functions required of upper garments, it is an important item to avoid inconveniences in daily life activities, it being of vital importance how to determine the amount of dimensional allowance in order to cope with changes in the size of the human body on the basis of said daily life activities.
With the technique of making silhouettes beautiful in a stationary state as in the case of a conventional master pattern for upper garments, however, the function associated with bodily movements is not sufficient, the upper garment being often worn out of shape even in daily life activities; particularly in the field of sportswear, there is no choice but to use a stretchable material in order to compensate for said point.
Such stretchable material, however, is made effective solely by friction between the skin of the human body and the fabric surface of the garment, a phenomenon which gives a sense of oppression on the human body, sometimes interfering with smooth movement; further, perspiration or the like changes the frictional force from time to time, further increasing a sense of oppression on the human body and impeding movability.
In shirts and upper garments, when the wearer moves his body, local tightening impeding movability takes place in response to muscle movements.
The relationships between places where said local tightening takes place are classified as follows.
Item 1
Concerning places on upper garments where local tightening takes place when the arms are moved with the back kept straightened:
A. When the arms are stretched upward (in the direction of Y axis),
local tightening takes place in opposite sides of the waist with the upper arms serving as force application points (see FIG. 6).
B. When the arms are stretched horizontal along the sides of the body (in the direction of X axis),
the result is the same as in the A above (see FIG. 7).
C. When the arms are stretched forward (in the direction of Z axis),
local tightening takes place in regions extending from the rear arm roots and along the back width lines, with the upper arms serving as force application points (see FIG. 8).
Item 2
Concerning places on upper garments where local tightening takes place when the back is bent back and forth:
Local tightening takes place on the center line of the body with the root of the neck serving as a force application point (see FIG. 9).
Item 3
Concerning places on upper garments where local tightening takes place when the back is bent right and left:
Local tightening takes place on lateral lines on the body with the shoulders serving as force application points (see FIG. 10).
Item 4
Concerning places on upper garments where local tightening takes place when the upper half of the body is twisted with the shoulders fixed:
Local tightening takes place on lines extending to the waist with the shoulders serving as force application points (see FIG. 11).
Bodily motions which people make in their daily life and sports activities consist one or combinations of the items described above. In the case of single movements described in Items 2 through 4, they can be compensated for by conventional dimensional allowances or simply by the selective use of such sleeves as raglan sleeves and dolman sleeves. However, the problem of local tightening taking place in upper garments owing to combined movements including Item 1 or by the single movement of Item 1 cannot be solved by conventional master patterns for upper garments.
An analysis of the phenomena that cannot be compensated for by said conventional dimensional allowances has revealed that they lie in the following two main factors.
(1) The amounts of movement in regions (armpits) below the arm roots in the X, Y and Z directions.
(2) The amounts of movement on sewing lines in regions extending forwardly and rearwardly of the arm roots to the lateral parts and the front part and to the lateral parts and the rear part of the body of the garment.
It has been impossible to cope with the amounts of movement in said two points by conventional master patterns for upper garments.
In addition, in FIG. 5, a curve extending from Q via R to S forms a sleeve attaching line, the R forming an armhole bottom, and a sleeve to be attached thereto is shown in FIG. 12 and it will be sewn so that R marks coincide with each other.
When the sleeve is divided along dotted lines U and V and sewn along sleeve bottom sewing lines UV, a sleeve bottom shown in FIG. 13 is obtained. The U and V points in FIG. 13 correspond to points of inflection on the sleeve root curve.
In FIG. 13, when the arms are raised and lowered (FIG. 6), it is clear that the shaded missing portion forms a portion which impedes movements.
If design drawings for sleeves and sleeve attaching lines are changed with said points taken into consideration, they depart from the curve of the human body, not only destroying the silhouette but also resulting in bagginess so that the excessive portion of the upper garment impedes movements. Furthermore, such change is ineffective with respect to the aforesaid factor 2.